The first model is cut by Tony
Geena Moon: she is brunette, tall and slender and has heavy long layers.
Tony uses the Altieri Brothers own 7" Monster Curves shears to quickly aerate her hair and create invisible layers.
To create a deeply side swept bang, Tony cuts the hair around the face using over-direction and gravity.
Each section is directed from the sides to drape up and over the previous sections and Tony then sliced into the sectioning with quick movements.
This automatically adjusted the side sweep to compensate density for the weak part of the face hairline and soften the thicker portions of the face line.
Tony reiterates an old rule: "as always, cut from short to long around the face."
Tony has more solid advice for a cutter: "Every cut has a focal point: the place where the place where the eye automatically goes to."
More Tony: "We show technique to help the stylist get around any haircut."
The second model is cut by Riccardo
Larissa Tanev: she has thick blonde hair and a smile that never is too far away.
Riccardo
begins at the nape and cuts the back in four sections. The
first, nape section, is chipped in with the Altieri Brother's
own razor, the Reflex Razor.
The finger rest is in the center of the handle so the tool cuts and handles like scissors.
From there, the next section, perimeter to occipital, is graduated with the Monster Hears with choppy graduation cut on the inside of the fingers. Already, the cut is soft and moving.
The third section, from the round of the occipital to the base of the crown, is sectioned vertically and rolled horizontally to be cut with upward slices of the Monster Shears.
This puts weight on the graduation but eliminates any appearance of a shelf or heaviness.
The fourth section, the crown, is completed with the razor flat to the sections and channel cutting curved softness to cap the cut.
Riccardo completes the cut forward of the ear with an a-line that is razored
above each parting to "staircase the line down." All future
diagonal sections are elevated and cut the same to create
draping softness to the face.
The higher Ricardo went in each section, the more he pinched the hair and snapped the razor inside the pinch to remove hair. This automatically built a softness predefined and finished.
Riccardo on styling: "Salon clients are looking for natural movement, away
from the flat iron - which has been overdone - and more
towards the round brush."
Read the interview with the Altieri Brothers at the Salon Rubio in Bellevue, Washington Read More...
Read a review of the Altieri Brothers Power Hair product line in Capelli d-Oro's latest Product Picks.
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